Creating an ‘alternative to leather’? Read this now.
Image Copyright: Lineapelle
If you're unfamiliar with my background, it's in design—specifically fashion and textile design. I believe the best design training equips you to apply your ‘design brain’ to any context. Right now, the field that most urgently needs design skills is material innovation.
In case you haven’t noticed, the number of startups innovating materials to replace or offer alternatives to animal or synthetic leather has been multiplying exponentially, yet market traction remains limited. The reasons for the lack of commercially available products are complex (we’ll cover that in separate features). However, one powerful tool that can significantly boost your chances of success is incorporating design talent. Sooner rather than later.
Lack of Differentiation will mean Lack of Business
This feature is the first in a series we’re creating on the role of design in material innovation. At our annual Biofabricate summit, we showcase the most comprehensive selection of biomaterial innovations. However, as a designer walking through the exhibits, I can't help but feel underwhelmed by the lack of differentiation. While the underlying technologies and ingredients may vary, here's the truth: most brand design teams care less about whether your material is made from fungi, bacteria, algae, or waste biomass, and much more about how it looks and feels.
It's the brand's design team you need to win over—they hold the real power. They are the ultimate decision-makers, working hand in hand with merchandising—not the sustainability, innovation, or investment teams. You can have warm and fuzzy relationships with the latter, but they can't get your material on the runway if the design team doesn't love it.
I get it—many brands ask if you can produce something that mimics black calf grain. And yes, some form of black calf grain is the most widely used leather color and texture across fashion, furniture, and automotive. But it's hard to stand out when you look like everyone else. Meeting performance standards and hitting a competitive price point is just table stakes; it won't set you apart. If your goal as an innovator is only to mimic what's already out there, you likely won't have a business in two years. Design is what makes the difference.